Repeated Originals

A fashion exhibition by Rasmus Nordqvist

5 feb. 2009 - 28 feb. 2009


”The couturier should be a geometrician, for the human body makes geometrical figures to which the materials should correspond.”
Madeleine Vionnet.

Inspiration
With this solo exhibition, fashion designer Rasmus Nordqvist traces Madeleine Vionnet’s inspiration from ancient Greek art and mathematical aesthetic. Exploring her use of “dynamic symmetry”, with a collection of five couture dresses, Rasmus enters a dialogue with Vionnet’s techniques.

“Dynamic Symmetry” is a proportioning system and natural design methodology. Rooted in the mathematical sequence known as the Fibonacci numbers, it provides the basis for a balanced design. The Greek vase represents the classical study of dynamic symmetry. Regardless of dimension, the system of proportion remains the same – pineapples and the spiral growth of the Nautilus seashell are examples of this principle.

Dresses
According to the principles of dynamic symmetry, the centre of the body is not the point of departure for design. Thus, the waist point of the dresses is shifted or dropped providing a Twenties and early-Thirties silhouette. Kept in monochromes of black, washed out charcoal grey and white, the draped toile dresses appear as shadows - as spectres of the couture process. Loosely embroidered triangles of metallic sequins make up geometric decoration at the necklines and hemlines and sprinkled black glass pearls give contrast to the raw aesthetic of the dresses.

The dresses are draped on the body using geometric shapes. Based on the proportions of the Greek vase type, Kantharos, one dress with cut-out slits is made by one piece of draped fabric. Another dress sits tightly on the hip accentuating the dropped waist. Capes held at the neck shift the focal point to the shoulder and neck as the centre of mass. Asymmetric sleeves, kimono sleeves and cape shapes merge Greek and Asian aesthetic, foregrounding a solemn and Spartan aesthetic.

Rasmus Nordqvist
Hailing from Denmark, Rasmus has lived in Paris where he worked both under his eponymous prêt-a-porter label and for Thimister. Rasmus has exhibited widely and has gained recognition for his avant-garde and austere design. Alongside his work as a fashion designer, Rasmus has led the Copenhagen Fashion & Design Festival and has worked strategically with fashion branding.


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